When buying a suit, we should first pay attention to the right cut of the jacket and trousers – a man should look perfect in his suit.
For this to be so, the right cut and material need to be chosen, as well as putting attention on the finishing, then the suit will definitely be the best investment for a man – and for several years. The issue of colours remains unchanged: dark blue and grey (a classic in men’s fashion) are future-proof colours, no other others have superseded them so far.
When we already find a suit in which we feel good (it should be comfortable and not limit our movements), we read the tag to find the information about the material, and check the finishing. Every single detail matters, even the kind of material the lining is made from, as it usually shows the class of the item, checking if a high price is conditioned by the quality of the material, which matters in the case of the lining. Famous manufacturers put their logo there, but this is more about the use of natural materials for the lining to ensure comfort in use.
There is no doubt that the clothes made from highly spun wool, cashmere or other premium quality fabrics, will fall to fit perfectly to the body. And this is what we pay for, this is the luxury.
For summer let’s choose 100% wool 140’s, or even Super 160’s, mixtures of wool and silk, and for hot days – silk with linen or 100% linen. We should not be afraid of linen or linen-blend fabric. Clothes made from the best silk and linen fabrics may wrinkle from sitting, but it is enough to walk and within several minutes the fabric is flat again. 100% wool fabrics should not wrinkle at all.
Suits or jackets for warm days should be made without a lining, which makes them light and breathable. And here we check the tailor’s craftsmanship. Let’s see if all the seams have welts, and inner pockets precise finishing. The jacket should look equally beautifully from the inside.
For a long time it was thought that a long lasting suit could be made from Super 120’s wool, not higher. We have seen, however, that modern technologies allow very strong types of Super 130’s, or even Super 140’s wool, light and thin, and at the same time pleasant to the touch. For generations, Italian manufacturers have been masters in the production of smooth and beautiful wool fabrics. Now, English factories also offer lines with fabrics that are no less to the touch than the Italian ones (Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry).
There should always be a good price-quality ratio.
The prices of precious materials are not low, yet in the case of fabrics that directly touch our body (shirts, trousers), it is worth paying more. Before we buy or order a suit or jacket, we should check the fabric supplier – a tailor or sales assistant will always inform us about the manufacturer and composition.
It is important to know from what sheep and lambs the yarn has been taken. The best manufacturers import wool from Australia and New Zealand, where there are the cleanest pastures. Wool colouring should be done only with natural colouring agents, and washing in the production cycle with clear water from mountain streams. We will find such wools at Lanificio Carlo Barbera, Drapers and Tessitura di Quaregna Ghione. This is the best, the healthiest, and the most beautiful wool. Let’s pay attention to the composition: lamb wool (WV) is delicate and does not tickle. Sheep’s wool (SW) is characterized by very high resistance and elasticity. The addition of mohair (WM) will give a noble gloss (we often see mohair blends in dinner jacket fabrics). Let’s not worry if we read 1-2% of elastane or 2-5% of polyamide – they were added to make the fabric even more practical.